Hydro Jack Replacement-Adding PVC casing

PVC Casing Question

I need other mechanics to consider this and answer this odd question. We are replacing a 4 story jack. Pulled the jack, and had a super-sucker company suck out the hole (had a 2 ft. culvert casing). Water is coming into the hole, at a moderately rate. We put in 37ft PVC (12in). By the time we had it down, it is floating 10 ft up. Now mind you its completely glued, encapsulated, and no leakage. Here's the question. If we add clean water into the interior of the PVC have we destroyed or damaged the intention of code about sealing out electrolysis, and other underground issues.
I've been laughed at for believing that the interior, added water is completely safe for the jack casing since it is isolated from any electrical current, and doesn't have exposure to oxygen.
Tell me where I'm right, or wrong.

Why not lower the first section jack onto the pvc as weight to lower it? I have also added oil into the first section of jack as well if just the weight of the jack section isn't enough.

I have seen the water method done as well with the intention of pumping the water back out after everything is landed and plum.

There is a product called Union Guard made just for this problem.

good question. No oxygen no rust.

Added bonus would be water jacket to keep it from overheating.

When replacing or installing cylinders that have water in well I have always saved the pic endcap for last. Except the first time!

It's been about 10 years since we've had to force the PVC liner down into the ground. We filled the liner with water, assembled the casing as we lowered it in. After the casing was in, we pumped out a foot or two of the water. Then we poured a product in to seal the water in. As Magic Smoke said if there is no oxygen, rust will not form. Sorry I can't remember the product name.

The product I have seen used was called Well Jell. But Danzeitz is correct union guard is the best way.

The biggest problem with PVC Liners and water is getting the Jack Plumb. The very best way and believe me I have pulled and replaced many a Jack, is to use a PVC Boot. They fit closely around the Jack, there is no issue with floatation. They are easy to put on and easy to align the the Jack, and perfectly Code Compliant.They encase the Jack with a fairly tight fit and there is no air between the material and the Jack. These work great.

Never put water back into the pvc. You will never know if the pvc has sprung a leak. I always landed my jack to keep it down, plumbed it up, then back filled to the leaky section using bentonite and sand in layers.

I also do not buy the no oxygen no rust theory as water is made of 1 part oxygen, what causes it to break down, heat. Will the oil heating up ever cause it to breakdown? Also how do you plan on jetting out the existing oxygen in the hole? So the waterline has two things needed for rust, oxygen and water, and potential catalyst of heat, to make it worse.

Just my 2 cents from a very over analytical perfectionist.