US assension 1000

Will not hold hall call or car calls
Will not run up on ins or down
Sarter says motor wiring fault (siemens soft start)
Car was running for years just fine
Put on insp - took off insp. ran up didnt open doors
And now we are dead in the water
Checked just about everything possible but dont
know about the boards? Does anyone have info on tool
or backround on the boards

Any Electical work done in building? Maybe phase reversal on main lines?

What does the starter say now? The way the Siemens starter was wired in is kind of a wild card. Most common reason for the motor wiring fault display is the fault contactor not picking.

In general with Ascension 1000's strange behavior tends to root in the power supply or it's connections. Make sure your power supply is like 5.1 vdc and the connections are good. All the smiled plugs can cause problems as well as the card plugs.

4.7 on most of the 5v areas

Starter says motor wiring fault only if you enter into menu and find faults on main screen just motor stoped
Fault contactor stays pulled in constant

Like indirt said, adjust your 4.7 up to 5.1 before you go any further. I recently had a 1000 doing some funny door stuff and when I plugged my tool into it, everything went haywire. Voltage was 4.8 and when I brought it up to 5.1 all door issues went away and I could plug into it fine.

Do you use the world tool ?
Does anyone have feedback on tools

I would go for the world tool before they only sell it on a tablet or something. I've never used the World version but it looks to be a copy of the original PCD that I have. The company I work for has a PC based tool also that works for the 2000 too, the nice thing about that is when you change displays, it changes the labels of the bits to match so you don't have to refer back and forth to a book. I made overlays for the different displays for that reason but don't use them as much as I thought I would.

Whether or not that tool works for Ascension 200 or not might be an important consideration for which tool you go with though.

I have the world tool and it does change the labels. The only issue with their tool is the timing. You can tell that your working on a new laptop that's plug into an old microprocessor(I guess that's a good way to describe it). When you change displays you have to wait for the software to catch up. And when your moving through groups and bits you have to get your timing right to get the "focus" where you want it to make adjustments, but once you've done it a couple of times it's fairly simple.

Is that the one that looks like the original PCD or the PC version?

Pc version

With the multiple symptoms described, I'd say Dirt hit it on the head...5volt supply.
Those connectors are notorious for intermittent weired troubles. We soldered them and (if memory serves me right) also ran a wire direct from that supply (5v) to the 5volt terminal location up top on the controller terminal strip.

I've had to jack the 5v up to 5.4 before the car would run.

Sounds like a plan and does anyone have access to an extra pcd?

We would get rid of all the factory female push on connectors and replace them with single small female stacons. And this would end the problem with high resistance causing your 5VDC to drop. We would mark the factory white wires with black dots so you could know where they went.

I replace the original Molex terminals with gold plated Trifurcon type. No more issues and you can still use the Molex plug housing. Just need to invest in a set of crumpets.