Tac 20 problem

Hey guys. I replaced motor to Tac 20 after getting low leg faults and smoke coming from tank. After installing new motor ims control monitor was telling me safeties was open. When I jump con 10 terminal 108 to 115 my drive comes on says motor up to volt and then my pump seems to be just bypassing not moving the car up. No matter what I do to valve body I can not get the car to move up. On the print 108 to 115 is HO , top final , bottom final , pit stop switch and HC. what is HO and HC ? Also what could I have done wrong that it will not move car up ??

It seems to be bypassing. I can’t build up pressure past 175-80 psi. I turned in the low pressure setting and it doesn’t change pressure.

HC is hoistway cable HO is HC too close to the symbol. TC is travel cable. If they (installers ) used the TKE provided wiring material, the colors will match the print, and the TC numbers will match the terminals.
Car not moving??? Are any solenoids energized?? Which ones?? Where is the platform?? (floor level at ?, below floor at ?, above floor at ?) Is motor drawing the correct current? Is level adjustor screen clogged? Have any adjustments (valve) been moved? What is the static pressure, and does it change when you run the pump? Do you know ow to adjust the valve??

How far in did you turn the low pressure adjustment?

How far out is your up slow? More than 3? Turn it all the way in then come out 2 turns. Car will probably be way to fast. Adjust up slow out until you achieve 10-12 fpm. I bet your up slow is way to far out.

Car is in pit probably on buffers. My up slow coil is energized. Ims says up is in . The first thing I did was turn up slow in .. after a full turn in with no pressure still I moved on the low pressure setting and still couldn’t build pressure. .. no valve setting were changed. It was lifted out of tank and laid on floor. I will check level adj screen .. Should I turn in the relief pressure valve ?

Is your motor running in the correct direction?

How can I tell if motor is running in correct direction ? Only way drive comes on is jumping 108-115 on con 10. up direction comes in drive says motor up to volts and then bypasses until low oil timer shuts it down

Jluff, I would venture to say rotation is correct, as it wouldn't build any pressure if it wasn't. But one way to tell also, is by listening. if it is out it will make god awful noises. Had that same exact issue last week on a job. Try turning in up slow all the way and coming out 2 turns. Get the car to build pressure and get off the buffers. I think my car was racked a bit, and my leveling speed was to low to get it out of the bind it was in. Once I did the two turn up slow adjustment and car was off buffers, adjusted the up slow out until my leveling speed was correct.

My issue occurred after a motor and pump replacement. At first my rotation was backwards. Once I fixed that, the elevator acted just as you say.

Did the oil get filtered after the motor burned? Maybe take a look at the up level adjuster screen.
This might sound lame, but you did check the pit switch is ON?

My static pressure seems to be around 120psi. When motor pumps I can get it to about 170ish psi . 180 psi is my empty car working pressure The motor sounds normal. The car is in the pit so I can’t check the stop switch. But the Saftey circuit being open and the drive and fault contactor not coming on with out the jumper is weird. I didn’t touch any stop switches besides the one on controller. I will be back there Tommorow and hopefully I can move the car with enough pressure built up from up slow adj .. I will also change the up leveling adj. I have spares

Check voltage uss1 to uss2 If 120vac, check continuity thru solenoid. IMS is saying solenoid is active, but is solenoid confirming that???

You know it’s normal for a Tac20 to remove power from the starter when the safety string is open right? You can always hear your safety circuit come in and out.

I got the car off buffers and level on first attempt after turning up slow all the way in then out 2 turns. At that point my car was in recycling mode but drifting up and leveling down non stop. I moved my low pressure adj out until that stopped. Then I placed a car call to upper floor up fast gets energized but car will not move. No matter how I adj valve body car will not move. At this point I sunk car on buffers and replaced the up leveling strainer. It looked really bad so I thought that was definitely the problem. After turning car back on now it will not come off buffers no matter what I do to up slow adjustment. This is really crazy. Can’t believe this car won’t move .. now it’s shut down because oil is to hot I believe. So coming back tomorrow..

Even when I shut off valve going to shaftway it doesn’t build pressure. Stays around 170psi Is it possible the valve body was the original problem that caused the bad motor.

Make sure manual lowering is off. Check to see if the voltage on the valve coils/ coil is correct.

Jluff, sending you a PM with some info

At this point I’m imagining a rag covering the pump impeller screen. This is just too bizarre.

Hopefully nothing got left in the oil line when it was vic coupled back together. I believe there are two more small screens under the up and down blocks.

I didn’t change the pump. Just the motor. I hope the pump
Is ok. I read if the pump spins you don’t need to replace it with the motor

So I exhausted all testing. I have 135v to coils. Up slow and up fast. They get energized but the pressure never builds past 180 psi. I need 240 psi for normal working pressure. No matter how I adjust the valve body pressure never builds. . It did come out of the pit however this morning but will not move on high speed or low speed from the level position at bottom floor . I’m going to replace the valve body .

The valve body is just by passing with out building pressure. I turned relief in all the way basically. Doesn’t change

I-2 valves should have only 1 of the 2 up solenoids energized. If you energize both, the valve will not adjust.

Car working great after replacing valve body. I don’t know what happened to the original .. as far as I knew it was working fine before motor went bad