Dover dmc help please.

Hi guys I am new to this forum and need some serious help.
I have a dmc with software version 675dk10. My original problem begain blowing the f2 (4amp) fuse, then started blowing the f3(4amp) fuse that is before the rectifier. This feeds the p24 circuit which feeds also p24c. If I left the car disabled for a day or two it would stop blowing fuses and run fine for a few days, then it pop fuses left right and center. I changed the rectifier but it didn't change anything. I swaped out the clc card and transferd the chips reprogrammed them with the freedom tool. I had to add a jumper from p24c to X06. To get the car to run on inspection. I got all the parameters set and saved hoist way run complete the damn thing just won't go on automatic HELP PLEASE!

What state and area do you work in, Monkey?

Canada

You have something going to ground taking out those fuses. I'd install all the old boards and then look for the human factor like pushing in on the car operating panel shorting the buttons and such out.

look in the bottom of the swing return and see whats going on with your power supply's, look for chafing on the traveling cable, check your switch tree, etc...

i'll get a DMC print and see if I can help your troubleshoot it.

what is between p24c and x06 ? what did you have to jumper ?

If you aren't having fuse blowing problems anymore-

And your only problem now is that it won't run on automatic-

Then I would look for the processor "run" light on the CLC. If it ain't on, you might have bent a pin on a eprom, or put one of them in off by a socket hole. Did you take pics before yanking the proms? Is there another car you could look at to compare? Do you have the right power supply voltage coming into the processor board?

The last time I got involved with that, we had long sockets, with spaces for many more pins than there was on the chips. The question became, "Do we sqaure them up with the top end of the socket, or the bottom end?". Unfortunately idr what the outcome was. I think we compared it to another car.

Check your floor gongs, I had a DMC blow the fuse only when it came to the floor, and then started blowing fuses as soon as the disconnect was turned on. Just a idea, hope it helps.

Hey guys sorry for the late response, clc card was sent out with a diode backwards, new clc card works EPROM in correctly, car will run on inspection, briefly, but on auto blows both 4 amp fuses feeding p24. I have checked everything replaced all components of the selector clc and I/O expansion boards, both door oper boards r fine. I have eliminated anything and everything even swaped traveller wires still no luck. Does anybody have some TNT

dig into your p24, use your meter to find which part of p24 is going to ground, you have something shorting to ground to blow those fuses.

keep removing wires and jumping things out to make it run on inspection, thats the only way you will find it. it will be a moveable item or maybe in the traveling cable, note the position each time it blows the fuses. check the traveling cable kellems attachments, might be digging in.

or, put a 30 amp fuse in and watch for fire.

Or a 3/8 bolt......

A good old possibility in random fuse blowing situations is the car nudging ckt or the buzzer since it is not a regular occurrence. In some cases you may need to pick up some in line fuse holders at your local Radio Shack. Separate your P24v bus into just a few wires per fuse holder and slightly under fuse each branch as to not blow the P24 fuse first. At least then you can determine a direction for what is blowing. Good luck.

Tried everything even put a piece of copper strand in nothing, and then tried to put 4amp back in and now the car works I don't know gave up it works fine all of a sudden and it stayed that way all week

Rather be lucky than good!!

I AGREE COMPLETELY!

Dover Dmc,s..having them on maintenace at times can be a real challenge......between the limit swich contact failures and board problems one has to wonder.......

Yeah...You got to love where they put the slowdowns, in that little piece of duct, behind the cab, that nobody but a contortionist can get to..

yea, right up against the side of the hoistway wall, halfway down the side of the cab.the lower ones if you have a broken spring in the limit you are almost hanging off the side of the car to get the damn thing apart..

a couple of bolts and the switch tree can be pulled up on the car top and the repair can be done on the crosshead.

billvator is right, it took me many years of being a contortionist before i figured this one out, boy what a time saver, and body saver. remove the 2 bolts and pull it up from the boot it sits in. you may have to remove the flex holders to swing it onto the car top. what a time saver, great post bill

Now you tell me..