Software Chips for DMC1

Need SW chips for DMC1. Anyone know where to get replacement chips?

Yes. DM me

I use Atmel OTP chips AT27C256R-79PU
Looks like they’re back in stock at Digi-Key

Dirt, how are you putting the software on them once you buy the blank chips?


I'm assuming you have generic dmc software, but do you have a special socket rigged up to be able to program it or can you put it in the clc card then program it? Do you just use a car specific software that's close or get it from TK or try to save it on all your jobs before you loose it?

I just use a universal programmer with a ZIF socket. The chips are not job specific, they’re generic. There’s 1 version for BP4 CLCs and a different version for pre BP4 CLCs.
Very rarely you might encounter a chip that’s software # ends in SP for special. That’s job specific generic.

Thanks, very good info to know

Yes Dirt. I would like to know the process to load it in the chips & if you have the SW to load?

I’m not going to hand out the software but the process is the same as copying any chip with a chip burner. You can go out and read all the DMCs you have on service and save the binaries. The latest is DK13 for the BP4 board and AN13 for the pre-BP4 boards. There’s a different version of each for the DMC-1A but don’t know those off the top of my head. The full DMC manual goes into great detail on software compatibility. One thing I’ll tell you is the older versions were 3 chip and left one blank but the new versions are all 4 chip. Don’t worry about it too much. If you’re going from a 3 chip to 4 chip just pull the 3 and put the 4 chip set in.

So got replacement software chips (DK15) from TKE and installed them in a World Electronics CLC board that is supposed to be the equivalent of a BP4 board. Have comms with the Door Board & Selector board but no comms with CLC or Group. It is a 5-stop Duplex. Plugged into Power/Relay board and CLC board directly with no comms. WD LED is out on CLC board. Have 5.09 VDC on CLC board and 54.6 ohms on PSC to NSC with everything connected up. Believe it should be 55 ohms, so I think the 5VDC is good and the resistance check is good. FAST manual says if WD LED is not continuously lit, then CLC SW must be replaced. Checking to see if there are any other suggestions as I just got this SW from TKE. The M1 chip is soldered in, so I just replaced M2, M3 and M4. Also noticed in DMC 1 manual that if car is part of a group, the CLC and SW must be changed in all cars. So that may be what my issue is? No CLC comms or Group comms?

Do you have 24vdc on terminal P24C in the COP? If not your power supply toggle switch is bad. This will take out clc comms and still look like the clc board is powered

All that watchdog needs to light is a good CLC, good software, and good 5vdc. Also seen the light fail to come on with excessive AC on the 5v. You don’t have a comm problem but a CLC not booting up problem. I don’t know about that soldered in M1 chip on that World board. I’ve never seen that. Might check with World on what software it needs. All I ever install is DK13 but the 15 may have door lock monitoring. And ya, all software in the group has to match for group comm.

Am i reading this right that you can get the software and the chips from Vertical express?



So got replacement software chips (DK15) from TKE and installed them in a World Electronics CLC board that is supposed to be the equivalent of a BP4 board.

For those people who have DMC controllers out there. Be aware of independent companies using the "obsolete marketing tactic" to upsell you into getting a mod that may not be necessary. There is still support for DMCs out there. While I do agree that support is beginning to diminish, enough is still supported that a mod may not be needed yet. Make sure you do your homework before falling for a mod. I'm not against mods though. There just lots of scams out there targeting older equipment. And, last but not least, stay away from Smartrise.

I agree 1000%

My companies scrupleless sales folks try this with our customers. The sales folks don't even know what they're talking about. If customers ask me for a technical opinion on the matter, I tell them I will keep your elevator running for as long as we can get parts, there's absolutely nothing wrong with your elevator. And I can get all the parts. DMCs are honestly almost fun to work on. I'll take a dmc over a kone or schindler anyday. And yes, I'd agree on not paying good money to go from a dmc to a smartrise. Our latest mods our mod guys have been replacing bad SRU boards like changing underwear. It's horrible, 2 cars 3 sru boards have went bad in the last month or 2. I get more callbacks and bad boards and parts on smartrises on my route than dmcs, by a long shot.

I just fixed a 79 general the other day my office was trying to tell them it had to be modded. It runs fine now. One bad contact filed and fixed and off she goes. Id get a second opinion on if you need a mod no matter what elevator you have in your building.

PS: The only company I've ever seen that has ever built a non-proprietary elevator that really works is TK-Northern. The only brand of elevator I've never been trapped in and never had a problem with. This is because they manufacture the entire elevator just like the big OEM companies, instead of buying from random vendors like the independents.

Oh, don't forget about MCE Motion series. It's really good too.

I have a chip programmer in my van for years but I don't know how to use it.

Which one?

Superpro model 280u xeltek

Nice!

Sucks you all are having so much problems with smartrise, installed a ton and never had issues even on there tractions
What about Alpha? Engineers from smartrise started that one

DMC are the Best Hydros from dover and 211 from Otis are bullet proof, I have about 60 DMC on my route,

The CLC red light needs to be on. Chances are if it’s an old power supply that you have a bad power supply. Even though your meter shows 5.09 vdc dosnt mean it’s clean power. Check the voltage with your mete on AC. If you have more than 1 vac on the power supply it’s junk. With the CLC board with only LCC 11 plugged in you should have the light on! If not bad power or bad board! I’ve seen new boards be bad out of the box.