I have had this problem twice and it must be a simple one but my bud from Kone has not revealed this to me. I have fixed many a sabotage from Kone in this area. Including the load weighing one, they have readily admitted to sabotage due to non paying customers, not the point. The car an ecospace is at the top floor and will not run down on insp,or anything else. Its level with the top floor. All lights but, start run, third from top? will light. 77 d is out and 77 u is lit. It acts just like a car does when it has a stuck normal. It doesn't generate a fault at all. I call my bud he comes in when I'm not there and fixes it in about 10 minutes. I think I got the 77 lights right as far as which one is lit and which one is out. I spent some time looking at this but not a whole lot cause I just call him and bam it's fixed. I don't have the kinda time to sit and figure it out and he likes messing with me. I don't usually get stumped to quickly. I figured out that alot of these drve problems are the relay in the back of the drive, pain to get to but making me alot of money,I take the condemned ones and fix em, lol. Anyone have this yet? I would like to finally get this monkey off my back.

77u is the top terminal switch 77n is the bottom terminal switch so u on at the top and n on at the bottom if both are on thats the problem 77d does not exist 77 s should be on all the time as it is not used on ecos is it in a group and if its your buddy is he fixing it and the next time the power cycles is that when it breaks again as if you change parameters they don't take effect till the power is cycled with no fault need more information it almost sounds like it is on hatch access as it will act as if it is on normal and you cant run it from machine room did you try runing it off of the cartop when it is locked up like this. the kone 1 key is the stop switch and access enable witch is hatch access and building turns it sometimes on my jobs thats my best guess without more info

theshaft-

Here, you need some of these!

.............. (periods)

A, B, C, etc (capitals)

heh heh! 8^)

already know all that info but thanks, and no he isn't doing amything.It's not access and if you read my post one 77 light is on and one is off. The only reason I pointed that out is that I stated it acts like it's got a stuck normal and if I'm not mistaken the 77 u and n are the nts limits the 77s is just for a short floor. I wasnt real clear on some things though when I push the inspection button all relays pick and I get all the normal start run lights but one. I think its run permit? It's the one near the top of the row of run lights on the cpu board. Like I said I am very well versed in alot of this controller. I have all the manuals and tech reports and troubleshooting guides, this is probably blindingly simple and I am the blind man. I actually had one that had the nts cigar switch wires switched in the cartop. this created a similar problem but not quite like this. BTW that one was tougher than you would think to figure out. It doesn't run from cartop, but how would you get to it car is at top floor.In car switch is not on insp. Thanks for the input though it's greatly appreciated.

You got it. Did you put that MX20 back in already?

Oh top floor sorry yeah does menu 4-1 say its on normal? Also is it in a group?

Mmm didn't check 4-1,don't have my book handy to check that menu title , what is it. Book is in my car.no to group

4-1 says what mode it is in 0=normal 1=inspection 3=fire service 4= emergency power 10=out of service 11=independent service. There are more but these are the only ones you usually see.

aquadog-
They could do their familiar sabbotage, maybe on the car top, then pull the manual brake release, so you can't get on the car top to fix it. There is a way to make the control move the car, even with a lot of stuff messed up.

You might need to change these parameters-

Menu 5, 9, set from a "1" to a "0"
Menu 1, 86, set from a "1" to a "0"

Pull XC11 off of the bottom left of the kcm831, then take a two pin plug, take the top two wires out of the now-removed plug, pins 1+2, insert those two wires into the two or three pin plug in the same orientation, then plug that two-pin plug back into the board, so the 24volts still makes its' return trip in+out. All other wires on that plug remain disconnected from the board.

Remove the white connector from the limit switch board, the one on the front of the drive.

You might also have to jump out the motor stop switch, the hatch safety circuit, car safety circuit, and door locks, but please be extremely careful with the door locks jumped. If the motor thermistor was removed at the motor, you can put 510 ohm resistor on the thermistor plug at the drive. Can't jump that one, because it's looking for a specific resistance.

theshaft-

The motor bearings were damaged in dissasembly, and they were not readiliy available in the USA. After sourcing them in Europe, it was finally reassembled. We did a truck-bed test on the motor today, by jumping in directly to the drive, and it did turn. Tomorrow, we install it "for real". Thanks for your input. (I think you advised me on the resolver angle, right?)

Vic

Yeah do you have a drive book?

theshaft-

Sent you a PM

We ought to start a poll...
Who does the best sabotoge on their way out the door.
Kone or Fujitech??

Hah hah! There sure are a lot of ways to mess with a Kone ecospace. Then pull the brake handle, so the tech can't get on the car top.

you got that right lol