Repair crew came in and replaced the pump and motor on a DMC 3 stop hydro. They tell me it won’t run up.

I pull INB and ran it up on inspection and the oil in the tank is just bypassing, it appears I’m not getting anything to the piston. I pulled the filter screens out of the valve, cleaned them. A little dirty, not bad. Checked the obvious, manual lowering, pit and machine room shut off valves. Checked coil voltage. All is good.

They said they had to remove the valve because they could not get around it when they pulled everything. No adjustments were made and I verified the wiring is correct. Everything put back correctly. The only difference is they put in a 12 lead motor instead of a 6. I verified that it is wired correctly.

Before hand the unit would run however there was a very loud knocking in the tank. It was decided that it either was a bad screw pump bearing or motor so they ordered both.

Can not get the unit to run up, sitting in the pit.

What do you guys think?

If the up level valve coil is magnetized and the ball valve isn’t closed, first thought of course is the screens. Did you check the up level adjuster screen and the screen under the up metering block? Then I’d put a gauge on it and make sure it’s building pressure. If not, something wrong with the pump. Then I’d back out relief to make sure that isn’t biting you. After all of that reset low pressure. Back out up start, turn in up stop, turn in up level. After that you’re taking the valve apart.

How do I reset the low pressure?

Back out the low pressure adjuster, disconnect the up slow valve coil, run the car up, turn it in til it he car moves then out til it stops. Then out 1/2 turn and lock it down.

Just a thought but is the motor running the right direction?

It may be calling for the motor to heat the oil.

Check your UA. it’s the gatekeeper to bypass

Do you have a fast tool. Or world tool, Is your coil magnetized? If Tony. Check top directional limit or. Jump out