Hi guys, Old elevator down. I need replacement floor coils, but can't locate the part #, the wiring diagram doesn't shown the part #'s. Is that normal? Can't read the number on the paper covers. Any ideas? The elevator was in good working order, until now. Any other options using the original controller? Thanks for your time!

why dont you take it to your local friendly rewinder, they SHOULD if they are good enough to be able to pull it apart (so to speak) and be able to determine all the details.

I still have a couple of them around. I'll try and get the number for you.

Try calling your LOCAL elevator contractor for some advice. A professional never hurts. On the other hand an amature usually does.Good luck and be safe.

Thanks for the info. I am working with reputable companies, but need to find the parts. Good advice. I did finally find some part numbers on a coil.Probably QW 6-60 I 23W 537 IV. Number on Otis tage 537-IV-10, this was staring us right in the face. Part is 1 11/16 long, outside 1 7/8, inside is hard to determine. Went to www.seeinc.com, some selection but can't sinc the part #s. Controller type is 1-SOB, not SOB. Couldn't get good pictures from the Otis tage, yet.

Thanks for your time.

Time to push for mod. It's only been 90 years!

Seriously tho, good luck with your search.

Received the floor coils. Turns out I had a service issue, not a parts issue. Original manufactur had them. They had all the parts, try having that with a 15 year old mod when you need a new computer board. Mod are built in obsolete which is like a subscipqtion, you need a new controller every 10-15 years and the state becomes involved.
1-sob going for the 22nd century and beyond. Nice talking to you all.

its headed to 22nd century until it melts down and catches fire or hurts someone and they sue. just because its old doesn't mean it can run forever. you can do a "like for like" controller overlay with new relays and not have to get into a full blown mod. it would be worth it. i have done them and made the units safer and more reliable.

I have old prints for this 1-SOB I bought all the old parts/ prints from a old Otis Office. If you need them...

O/E, does a 1-SOB stop on the brake?

I had an old elevator in Long Beach, CA, that stopped on the brake. Had a 3 digit State number. You could dick around with the brake, but even so, you couldn't get it to stop any closer than 2 or 3 inches from the floor!

We told the customer that we wouldn't be involved, unless it was modded. If someone tripped, the plaintiff would name us in the suit, regardless if they couldn't prove negligence.

"The Practice of Law-
Whatever you can get a judge to agree to, and a jury to believe, on any given day"

This reminds me of an old Otis gearless job we take care of that was put in during the early 1920's. At some point probably late 50's or very early 60's it had a General controller overlay. We had to rewind one of the armatures last year. The customer couldn't understand why the motor had failed...

Yes...The old flip-flop switches were a primitive door zone...if the car hit the switch it would drop the relays and slide on the brake... If you tightened it too much she was stop high...and not enough she slid thru...Then there was the always a happy middle. I have full prints of these oldies still.

elev8 is right about the brake, back then people knew to pick up their feet. level accuracy was within a inch or 2 and you didnt set up a brake with weighs.

FYI The floor coil #'s for Otis sheet #4012, dated July 19, 1920 are #103594. The Non-Interference switch, the Aux. cam and Cam(cab top) coil are all #103594. The Self-Holding switch is #114536. The Directional switches are both #13470. The Acceleration switch is #13475. This information comes from the present coils on the machine and the original manufacturer.

My mistake. The NON-Interference switch, the Aux. Cam switch and the Cam (Cab top) coil are all #103593.

We had an Old SOB with the Micro/drive..vintage 1928..that was some piece of equipment...one continuous chain which ran down 5fls and engaged the freight doors.driven by a Seperate motor and braking system...

check your main fuses a lot of guys used to put higher amp fuses to "let the smoke out" and find a problem coil. if i remember right 3 amp fuses are spec. better to swap a fuse than replace a melted down controller.

Your right GreenPants someone put 20amp motor fuses (Dual Element)and some coils did burn. The correct fuses for this controller is (3)5amp one-time, as per manufacturer specs, without retiring cam motor in control circuit. At 5 amps the fuses also provide overload protection (125% of rated load) and overcurrent protection. I have experienced the overload protection working properly. Correct fuses protect equipment and save time and money.

220v system..Magnet relays used to hang-up from residual.build-up..was a real problem keeping coils for any lenght of time..

We have that issue on the old Haughton equipment here in los Angeles