Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions TK Access Minivator

First time I’ve ever seen one of these home lifts. Doe’s anyone have anything on these? Manual, prints, parts info, etc?

Yes. Have prints can send..if i could ever figure out how to post the link like others do i would that.
https://aaccessis.com/ can get parts there

Good day, I know this is an old post, but do you still happen to have these prints you could share? I got a call for one of these but have no prints or info on it. Thanks in advance.

Is it the elevator or a lift?

Actual elevator. Not the lift

What problem is it experiencing?

So it’s just a two stop elevator. If the cab is anywhere at all other than floor level at top floor, the two ‘hall call stations’ (up/down switches to bring it to you from another floor) it works in both directions evetytimf. But as soon as that cab reaches the top limit switch for floor level it will not go down at all from either hall switches it button inside the cab. But if I manually pick the relay and drop it about a foot, all buttons in both directions work again. I replaced both limit switches and the door lock switch (all 3 on the backside of the cab) I did notice though that at top floor level the door switch on the backside doesn’t have any electrical readings to it. I traced the wires and checked the rectifier feeding it and had nothing going into there either. But I don’t lose these readings on the bottom floor or anywhere in between. But there are no prints there and I can’t find any, and I feel like I’m just pissing in the wind unless I can look at a print or something to follow.

I sent you a private message

The mechanical limit switches for the top and bottom floors are safeties only. They are there only to keep the elevator from overrunning the bottom floor into the pit (if there is one) or overrunning the top floor into the mechanicals and motor.

The actual floor stops are controlled by the magnet plates bolted to the left rail.

I would expect a code to be present on the hall stations when the elevator is at the top floor and won't work. That's the safety. Then, as you move the cab down just enough to un-trip the safety, the code should go away and the hall stations will act normally. I assume you are moving the cab down just an inch or so with the wheel on the motor shaft or with a pendant.

It sounds like there is a problem with the magnet plate, the magnets, the magnet hall-effect sensors or the circuit board that has the hall-effect sensors.

Things that come to mind that fit the symptoms you are seeing:

(1) The plate with the magnets is loose or was loose and is no longer properly positioned on the rail relative to where the cab lines up for the top floor.

(2) One or more magnets on the plate are dislodged.

NOTE: the magnets are North and South specific, so you have to know which side, North or South, needs to face the COP wall

(3) The circuit board that has the magnet hall-effect sensors is dislodged somehow. This circuit board rides in a metal housing on the outside of the cab and needs to be 1/4" from the magnets when passing them. There are some adjustment bolts on top of the cab.

(4) The circuit board that has the magnet hall-effect sensors is somehow electrically damaged. This will be the worst case, but I doubt this will be the case based on normal operation once you bring the cab down slightly on second floor.

(5) The magnet hall-effect sensor integrated circuit for the second floor (top floor) is dead on the circuit board and needs to be replaced. This was the case for my elevator and I scavenged the "third floor" hall-effect sensor and used it for the dead sensor. It is not actually the "third floor" sensor as the floors are bit encoded, but with only two floors, there is one sensor that is essentially spare. The magnet hall-effect sensor integrated circuit is just a 4-pin IC that is not hard to repair if necessary.

If you are lucky, a magnet on the second floor plate has come loose and it just needs to be re-positioned. There is a bulletin for this and it has you actually gluing the magnet down with epoxy so it doesn't happen again.

Another thought...

It could also be the top floor safety limit plate that is bolted to the right rail is too low. Now, if the elevator was working correctly before, this is probably not the case. But, if that safety limit plate was found to be loose and maybe slid down an inch, now the safety limits would engage when the elevator comes to the top floor. The top plate on the right side rail needs to be just high enough to not trip the limit switches when the cab is empty and account for any minor bouncing when entering and exiting the cab.