Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions Otis LRV3 pushbutton

Had in car pushbutton not working (placing a car call) on an LRV 3. Didn't have a replacement board handy so i swapped the assembly with the adjacent rear floor pb (never used) but that didnt fix it.(the old board worked fine on the rear entrance). Car is running but will not travel to level 3 front.
Im thinking processor board? Any thoughts?

Then...

Found an identical (so it appears) hall pushbutton board in the shop and i gave that a try (why not its monday).
When i energized the controller i could smell the familiar smell of burnt resistor from the cop and now have a lifeless cpu. There is a flashing red light on the processor board and a quick check of controller fuses didnt show anything obvious. Any thoughts?

I think some PB boards have a diode and some don't. I remember an Otis guy telling me to be careful when changing them out. Sorry that's not much help but that's all I know about them.

you probably smoked your header jumper on processor,alway swap for identical an if jumper on button board was cut,do the same an cut it.Ilearned this the hard way on a friday.

Some of those pushbutton boards have a jumper (or diode like E-man said) on them that may need to be removed, so compare the new board to the old board.

The watchdog red light is a good sign. Will the car run on inspection? Can you jump the calls directly on the COP to get the car to run? If you unplug the "new" 3 front button will the car do anything?

when you are dealing with an LRV3 processor board.they are very hard to come by..most Lrv3 outhere have been upgraded to the Lrv4 processor..eliminates a lot of issues...

you took out one of the input chips on the cpu board, this is a typical trouble call, when the board jumper is not removed. need to look carefully, it does not look like a jumper, just a long piece of hard wire, i think it is in the J3 position, maybe J4, anyway if you are lucky, the input chips are in a socket, in which case you can remove the chip and replace with a new one, i have made this repair quite a few times over the years, replacing the chip will get the car back online, sometimes it will take out a couple of chips in the same area, if they are not in dip sockets, then you will have to have it repaired, or break out your soldering gun. good luck

Guys, great information thanks.

When i compared them, the only visible difference was the diode was missing the polarity stripe, if it was a jumper, the insulation looked very similar to a diode, and i recall there was a solid jumper wire on the opposite side of the pb from the diode. It was clearly for a hall pushbutton, which has a seperate interface to the controller.

If you forget about the oopsy for a minute and go back to the beginning...
When i swapped the existing pushbutton around to see if it would work on another floor input, the 3rd landing still wouldn't latch a call, even with a different assembly. Has anyone lost a car call input before in a similar way and replaced the input chips or entire board as a fix?

Also, i have an LRV4 board in stock, whats involved with the upgrade?

You could just have a bad input chip, but my fear is "the smell" you described probably fried the socket as well. You'll likely have to either swap the board or send out the one you have for repair.

The LRV4 board needs a different hall button interface board and some changes in the wiring.

I have upgraded them before..Hall button Interface board is not different..only thing that is added with the Lrv4 board is the updated level software..wiring changes for the type of stop switch push button verses Keyed...

I take this has a car pcb for serial connection to the controller? If so, then if you have swapped out the button assembly for another floor, of which should have worked(as it appeared these aren't coded for each floor), then to me the car pcb, or the controller has the issue of not latching the serial data. Either way the only real way to find this, will be start swapping boards. Now you have another issue which might take precedence. I always have a healthy cynical view on parts that aren't labelled as good from the depot. When I have these I always label them as good or bad.

Well the new cpu solved the problem, but i ended up having to replace the relay board too to get it running. Now all the hall calls are lit up and the hall button interface has all inputs and outputs high, looks like one more board should do the trick.....

For reference in case the last board you replace doesn't cure the holding hall calls.

http://www.vatortrader.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=354&Number=1683#Post1683

Bayblue,

I enjoyed reading that old thread. And I just wanted to leave you with a quote!

"It's not easy being GREEN!"
Kermit the Frog

Make sure its not out of step...if it is..you will see this condition...

Yes i enjpyed that thread too! Lots of good info here.

It was taking car calls and travelling to the appropriate floors, i left it running on independent for the boys to use.

When i energize, all input and output leds light up on the hall interface board. And it doesnt latch or respond to any hall calls so i figured on the board, considering its all i have left to replace.

Well my hopes of the interface board failed miserably today. Looks like upon further investigation my power supply is outputting 12v and 12v instead of 12v and 30v. I'm confident this will solve my problem but I had another suggestion of the tone board too, any thoughts?

tone board could be bad, sounds like you took out the whole lot, what a pain. good luck

Replaced the power supply and the tone board and still no success. On the old processor board there are external jumpers made of wire that join certain chips and one goes from a test point to a resistor, has anyone had to put these on the new board? World electronica confirmed i have the proper processor, when i tried to put the old one back in it smoked up, so now im back to the new processor and running on independant service.

All hall calls lit, not responding to any or cancellong any. Drained the cap and removed and replaced all chips...

Any ideas?

I had a blown fuse on the board in the machine room that made the hall calls and fire service do strange things when you tried to register a call.

Are you sure that all of the pins on the chips are inserted fully into the sockets, and that the indentation on the top of the chips is matching the indentation on the sockets (correct orientation)?

what about the RV input, there is a little small miniature relay in the cop if i remember correctly. if you have the prints, i believe it feeds the hall board. i seem to remember about 20 years ago having this relay go bad and having some kind of hall call problem. it was a small black miniature relay, you would hardly notice it . worth a shot