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#10772 05/22/14 07:23 AM
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I am looking for an adjustment sheet or instructions for an old Dover door Type D operator installed in the 70's. Some modifications have been made over the years and the decel is not working properly. The elevator is a 4 stop hydro and the controller has a door board with 2 pots on it. One is labeled re-open the other is not labeled. What is the function of the second pot?

Thanks for the help!


Chris Kenlan
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Chris,

The second is the open timer adjustment.

Check and make sure OHS relay is dropping out when the door hits OSD1, your first slow down. Next OSD2 should close slowing down the door. Last DOL opens dropping out OD to stop the door.


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JKH
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What type of controller?

What is the number on the board? And is it a dover board?

I would think if it was installed the 70's it would be a resistor type operator.

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Thanks for the reply.

Are the slow down distances set similar to GAL? 1st at 3/4 of open distance then 2nd at the last 4 inches? I don't think my problems lie in the switching but in the resistors.There is 1 band on one of the door resistor that is missing a wire, and I cant seem to find the resistor location on the prints. Like I said there have been modifications done and not recorded anywhere so I need to establish what was changed.I was hoping to determine typical resistor ratings and settings to compare to what I have.

Thanks again


Chris Kenlan
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Thanks for the reply

Dover hydro controller. Yes the operator is a resistor type, I am trying to get adjustment info for the resistors. I cant locate all the resistors (3) on the prints


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How many taps on the resistor do you have? On my equipment that is newer then that has 8 from left to right is A, Ndg, csd1. Cd2, center tap, osd2, osd1, and ohs. To slow down move taps closer to center tap.

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Originally Posted By: Chris
Thanks for the reply.

Are the slow down distances set similar to GAL? 1st at 3/4 of open distance then 2nd at the last 4 inches? I don't think my problems lie in the switching but in the resistors.There is 1 band on one of the door resistor that is missing a wire, and I cant seem to find the resistor location on the prints. Like I said there have been modifications done and not recorded anywhere so I need to establish what was changed.I was hoping to determine typical resistor ratings and settings to compare to what I have.

Thanks again


See if your resistors are still good enough to use, but then test the resistance to check for spares and wattages. You would normally have initial close speed, fast speed close and final close speed for typical resistor PDO's. Check your operation of this. If your final close speed is too fast, then check which limit operates last(generally opens) close to fully closed, then trace your wiring to that resistor to test functionality. Do this for all limits of which may be the problem.

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Chris,
Dover made several types of controllers. If you are not sure which controller you have please post the following.
1) a photo of the controller
2) a photo of the door operator
3) the drawling numbers on the prints you have.
4) the drawling number for the door print

You can post the photos and info on the photo gallery...


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Originally Posted By: Chris
I am looking for an adjustment sheet or instructions for an old Dover door Type D operator installed in the 70's. Some modifications have been made over the years and the decel is not working properly. The elevator is a 4 stop hydro and the controller has a door board with 2 pots on it. One is labeled re-open the other is not labeled. What is the function of the second pot?

Thanks for the help!


I'm confused(what's new), it has a board and a resistor. Pics would be greatly appreciated.

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Sbrmilitia,

I'm confused as well! Hopefully he will post pictures so we may see what he has. When he was asked which controller he posted "Dover Hydro Controller"...

Hearing that as his answer sends up a red flag for me!

Chris,
Please don't take this as an insult. Your profile says your a supervisor. How long have you been working in the Elevator Industry?

Last edited by jkh; 05/24/14 02:24 PM.

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I am absolutely taking it as an insult!I appreciate people taking time to try and enlighten me but keep your snotty comments to yourself. I have been in the business for 26 years and I am the first one to admit I don't know everything, but I guess some people do. I am not on the job now and I will send pictures when I get there Tuesday.
By the way the comment about the controller is accurate, it is a Dover Hydro, there are boards in the controller (power, door, car ,hall etc.), the are two pots on the door board only one of which is labeled and the door operator has 3 250 ohm resistors in the controller cabinet.

"Better to be silent and assumed to be an idiot then to open ones mouth and remove all doubt"


Chris Kenlan
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Chris,
It was not my intent. I am trying to establish that I am not giving information to someone like a clever building maintenance mechanic. I would be happy to try and help.

I apologize for doubting your veracity. I am looking for a write up. But I believe it's for an HD door operator. If you would like I will let you know when I find it...


Last edited by jkh; 05/24/14 10:18 PM. Reason: Spelling

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Reason I was confused cause I thought you meant there is resistors and a board in the operator box. So there is only a board in the operator on the car top correct? And 3 resistors in the controller? This info if it is correct it is a totally different operator then jkh and myself first thought you were asking questions about.

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its an oildraulic controller, the door board he is talking about is in the controller, it is part of the logic system, along with the power, car board etc. the door board has nothing to do with controlling the speed of the doors, the 2 pots are for door hold open times only. the 3 resistors in the controller are r1d, r2d, r3d r2d is the resistor that will control the open hi speed, this is probably the resistor that has the wire removed, it would be the wire that goes to the OHS relay contact. r3d is the resistor that controls open start speed, and close speed. it will have 2 sliders on it to adjust these speeds. r1d is a fixed resistor on the negative side of the power supply, and is fixed, no adjustment. i say that the resistor with the wire removed is hi speed, because if the OHS timer fails, or the mechanic can't adjust the hi speed of the door properly, this is sometimes removed. seen it a few times. if you say the doors don't decal properly, then you either have the overall speed set to hi, which case you would adjust the taps for open and close , or the slowdown resistor on the car top in the door operator is open, or some problem there. you can force the doors into slowdown by putting a jumper between CT, and the slowdown bands for each speed,
what i would do is take the slowdown wire CT off of the slowdown resistor, then set overall door speed to something that does not slam the doors open or close, then put ct back on and fine tune the slowdowns. slowdown cams should be set similar to gal same idea. if you need any prints i have some good luck

a properly adjusted door, would start to open slowly, about 1-2", then the OHS relay would pick up, which would initiate hi speed, you need to adjust the OHS timer in the controller, to adjust the slow start of the doors, along with the A band on the door operator i believe it is A

Last edited by Vatorgator; 05/25/14 03:10 AM.
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Sorry about the confusion, but I finally got to the job yesterday. I don't have time this morning to go into much detail, but what I found was that the r3 resistor door close wire was removed from the adjusting band and relocated to the end post on the r3 resistor to try to slow the door down I believe. The OHS wire was attached to r2 resistor which I moved to r3 and the open speed is much better,but I still have virtually no slowdown during door close. The previous mechanic had Csd1 and Csd2 cams almost aligned at about center of the door close, when I move them to there proper position the close gets worse? I have to go back again this week to check the resistor in the operator, I ran out of time yesterday.


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Sounds like that tap may be on the wrong side? Very limited experience here, if you have time, mark the tap and make gross adjustments just to verify which way you want them to go. The cam, if I remember, is just the mechanical location that the slowdown should work. I would explore the taps.

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Originally Posted By: Chris
Sorry about the confusion, but I finally got to the job yesterday. I don't have time this morning to go into much detail, but what I found was that the r3 resistor door close wire was removed from the adjusting band and relocated to the end post on the r3 resistor to try to slow the door down I believe. The OHS wire was attached to r2 resistor which I moved to r3 and the open speed is much better,but I still have virtually no slowdown during door close. The previous mechanic had Csd1 and Csd2 cams almost aligned at about center of the door close, when I move them to there proper position the close gets worse? I have to go back again this week to check the resistor in the operator, I ran out of time yesterday.



This sounds to me that any resistance that should be in that circuit isn't there. Is it shorted, are the limits shorted? Doubt is open circuit as then it would most likely wouldn't close. Anyone got a door print they could post?

Last edited by uppo72; 05/28/14 01:44 PM.
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Good news, with operator drawings kindly provided by a forum member I got it straightened out.I didn't realize that there is a resistor in the swing out, (rd5) which was not adjusted correctly. I cant understand why the last mechanics adjusted the door the way it was, but with a little tweaking of the adjusting bands on rd5 and readjusting csd1 and csd2 the door is now operating great! Much thanks to everyone for their help.


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Just Curious about some of the information you posted. I Have a dover HD-91 door operator that is giving me some issues. The problem is the door opens super super fast but does slow down before full open. Checked both door open slow downs both are working. If i hold the door open slowdown contact closed it acts correctly and the door opens slowly. Has 5 resistor tubes in controller
and R3 and R4 are involved with door open according to print. i adjusted both of them to the bottom of the resistor just to see if changed door open speed but did nothing. Ohmed out all resistor tubes in controller and all ohm out ok. I have not touched the resistor tube in the door operator yet. Have the door open slowdown jumped so door opens slowly for now. Im trying to figure out what controls the door open speed when first opens. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanks

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You mean it doesn’t have a slow start open? Or the open speed in general is just way too fast? Some of the controllers with those operators had an open high speed timer that you set to hold of OHS from picking until the clutch engaged the pickups.

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