I test mine in the following manner,
Down load from the CLC to the FAST tool (good practice, hope you have one). Get control of the car, jumper the auxillary disconnect contacts in the controller, send the car away from the floor and pull the switch. If all goes well, it'll level speed down to the lowest landing and open the doors, then close them. Pull the jumper and power the unit up again. If all of the controller equipment looks OEM (ie Dover blue hat channel bracket securing the battery, a metal stand off panel with an 115VAC terminal block and a few relays mounted to the back and front, etc. ) it just may be the battery in the UPS unit itself is bad. Are there any LEDs to clue you in as to the state of the stand by unit itself?
