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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 404
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troubleshooter1
troubleshooter1
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 404
Does anyone have any info about adjusting this drive unit?. The only paperwork i can find on this is the Menu 6 drive parameter table. I am interested in finding out what parameter 6_1, motor parameter variable means. the range is 5.10 thru 10.25 with a default of 10.20. also i would like to know about the parameters that have CALC as the default. One parameter 6_10 says it is calculated by the drive, but i see other parameters with calc as the default, and we were able to change them to match a running car. I am not sure how to go about getting the drive to calculate these parameters, maybe it is done automagically? I am troubleshooting one of these drives, that supposedly was repaired. the car will run on inspection a few feet and get a 104 error, overcurrent. sure enough if i measure current with a amp meter all three legs of the motor are running extremely high, anywhere between 60 - 100 amps, where as a similar car is running about 19-22 amps. I ended up swapping drive with another car and the problem followed. Im going to send the drive in for repair, but would like more info for when it returns, any help would be appreciated.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 60
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journeyman
journeyman
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 60
Resolve or Eco space? Is it a galvanized cabinet or brown resolve ?

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 404
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troubleshooter1
troubleshooter1
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 404
it is a galvanized cabinet, i am new to these kone cars, and all the different names get confusing. there is a manual on the job that says kcm831 resolve, I asked the mechanic on the job, and he says the print says eco space. there was a sticker on the inside of the cabinet that just said kcm831. what are the differences in all these controllers. we have tmsav50 units that say eco space also on the print, any insight would be appreciated.

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 565
Vic Offline
jack of all depts
jack of all depts
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 565
I dont have my stuff with me, but if I remember correctly, 0104 is an overtemp fault on the drive. Its a two wire plug on the drive board, left side, front, top. If you pull it off, it will register a 0104 on the KCM831. Codes that start with 01 are faults generated from the drive, and 00 prefixed codes are operational codes for the KCM831. They all show up in the E menu.

Interpreting the codes is a bit of an art. If you go to the E, 1 menu, you will see 99 codes in sequence. (99 is the oldest, 1 is the most recent) It's a last in, first out register, with no time or date stamp, which sucks. E,2 clears the register. There is no marker for when the car was running on automatic, just a bunch of faults all strung together. While I'm troubleshooting, I sometimes pull the drive temp connector, to generate a temp fault, 0104, (hope I remembered that right, its been many months), Anyway, that "stamp" of the 0104 code tells me when the car was last running on auto, (cause I replace the plug just before turning it loose), so I know that every code captured after that represents the next thing that happened in chronological order. Faults come in groups, like if you get a temp fault, you will also get a 0026, (controller safety open), and also a 0121, is it, or 0126, I cant remember right now, anyway, you will also get a drive safety fault. They come in pairs like that, one triggers the other. There is usually a few "sympathetic" faults, that come in groups. After a while, I didn't need the 0104 stamp anymore, because you kinda get used to the cling-on faults, and find the troublemaker in the pack. So anyway, all I'm trying to say is, faults come in groups, and the root fault is embedded therein. Kinda like one good looking girl in a clump of cock blocks. Is that analogy too obscure? :^)

Also, if you have an ADON1 board, get rid of it. They are widely known to be junk, those clear Shrack relays have flakey contacts. The ADON1 board causes a lot of I think it's "0086" door zone supervisory faults, leveling problems, car stops in flight, gets stuck randomly, etc. The ADON 2 is expensive, but has better relays, which have white relays in place of the old clear Schrack ones. It also has a bunch of tell-tale LEDs on it, in an inscrutable display. The old board has like an $800 core return credit, so don't trash it.

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 565
Vic Offline
jack of all depts
jack of all depts
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 565
I don't have anything on adjusting the drive right now, but if I find something, I'll pass it along.


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