I dont have my stuff with me, but if I remember correctly, 0104 is an overtemp fault on the drive. Its a two wire plug on the drive board, left side, front, top. If you pull it off, it will register a 0104 on the KCM831. Codes that start with 01 are faults generated from the drive, and 00 prefixed codes are operational codes for the KCM831. They all show up in the E menu.
Interpreting the codes is a bit of an art. If you go to the E, 1 menu, you will see 99 codes in sequence. (99 is the oldest, 1 is the most recent) It's a last in, first out register, with no time or date stamp, which sucks. E,2 clears the register. There is no marker for when the car was running on automatic, just a bunch of faults all strung together. While I'm troubleshooting, I sometimes pull the drive temp connector, to generate a temp fault, 0104, (hope I remembered that right, its been many months), Anyway, that "stamp" of the 0104 code tells me when the car was last running on auto, (cause I replace the plug just before turning it loose), so I know that every code captured after that represents the next thing that happened in chronological order. Faults come in groups, like if you get a temp fault, you will also get a 0026, (controller safety open), and also a 0121, is it, or 0126, I cant remember right now, anyway, you will also get a drive safety fault. They come in pairs like that, one triggers the other. There is usually a few "sympathetic" faults, that come in groups. After a while, I didn't need the 0104 stamp anymore, because you kinda get used to the cling-on faults, and find the troublemaker in the pack. So anyway, all I'm trying to say is, faults come in groups, and the root fault is embedded therein. Kinda like one good looking girl in a clump of cock blocks. Is that analogy too obscure? :^)
Also, if you have an ADON1 board, get rid of it. They are widely known to be junk, those clear Shrack relays have flakey contacts. The ADON1 board causes a lot of I think it's "0086" door zone supervisory faults, leveling problems, car stops in flight, gets stuck randomly, etc. The ADON 2 is expensive, but has better relays, which have white relays in place of the old clear Schrack ones. It also has a bunch of tell-tale LEDs on it, in an inscrutable display. The old board has like an $800 core return credit, so don't trash it.
