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#16844 04/25/16 05:04 PM
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 44
H
Mechanic
Mechanic
H Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 44
New stop -
found doors stalling out at mid point in open.
Uncoupled car doors,open appears to work ok. (seemed like pots OF and OS didn't react much) Checked mechanical resistances of car and hatch doors - not that bad.

Replaced board 104. Tuned up hatch door at top, new rollers, adjusted gibs, slides good. Have have only slight operator open improvement - on test. On auto doors still bogging down at half open. OF pot appears maxed out. (do need to replace flaky micro of CSDL) - never checked OSDL.

volts check out at 45VDC. Couldnt get a meaningfull voltage across R2.
Any one with ideas??

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 141
B
Boa Offline
member
member
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 141
check your split link assembly, make sure it's free and adjusted properly. Make sure your jumpers are set J-4 should be in STANDARD position unless two pairs of wires are at TB3, take J-3 off, this eliminates the dynamic braking. If this doesn't get it might be the cap underneath. Make sure belts aren't to tight or slipping. You should not have to adjust open force (P8), it should be factory set and have wax on it. I'm assumming you have switches set. Most of the time it is something mechanical

Boa #16849 04/25/16 10:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 800
J
old hand
old hand
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 800
Also check Motor Brushes. But this can also be a Micro Switch problem. Check them closely with a meter. Power off and using Ohms function.

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 81
journeyman
journeyman
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 81
Hi, the 104 board uses a capacitor below the chassis of the door operator, it a common problem.



Good luck.

Joined: May 2011
Posts: 487
E
addict
addict
E Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 487
I've never had a problem with the capacitor that I know of.. what does it do? Is it a boost or a filter?

Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 102
E
member
member
E Offline
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 102
Check the 45 VDC on 104 board, if it's 38ish or lower replace rectifier under chassis, have done it several times, easy fix

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 44
H
Mechanic
Mechanic
H Offline
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 44
Thanks Elevatorfella and all. (somehow my reply earlier to all didnt post)

I did end up replacing the rectifier (even though volts was at 45) and the Cap. (Also the CSDL switch was bad.) Job running OK now.

Interesting note/ observation - on the original setup every time I applied 120VAC via the L2 input wire I'd get a metallic / Buzz momentarily noise from below the chassis. With the new components no more.

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 2
D
stranger
stranger
D Offline
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 2
Definitely check connections on that capacitor mentioned earlier. I had a loose connection cause me intermittent fits on one about a year ago. Sounds very similar


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