Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions DMC not answering hall calls

Replaced CLC battery with a brand new one before annual pressure test as we always do. Performed test and everything was fine, car running perfect. Killed power to check an issue with battery lowering, turned power back on and complete program dump. Reloaded using the World tool like we have done a hundred other times, did learn run, everything works as it should but no hall calls. Laptop sees it when you push a call but car will not respond to hall calls.

Are CLC adjustments 52 through 59 set correctly?

Car runs fine on car calls, hall buttons light when you push them and laptop sees the input, just doesn't latch or respond. This clc board does not have the extender board that the hall calls go into.

Hey Dirt,
What is it...In the manual, you have to set valid door openings, and valid floors right? Two different charts. Single car etc. I suspect an error in setting of parameters/adjustments.
Is that adjustments 52-59, I can’t remember.

Error 015 Cold Start.
Hoistway scan, door scan
Set adjustments and parameters=should be good to go.

On the World tool, check the setting for adjustments 40 through 43. Validate Front/Rear Doors for Group.

Ya, that’s what I was thinking. Valid front openings for car set correctly but valid front openings for group wrong. 52 should = 56 and 53 should = 57 and I was assuming it’s not front & rear. The only thing besides that I can think of is adj. 31 car ID in group set to slave or 32 not set to single car. They should both be 1 for a simplex.

For the OP-
If it is a cold start, adjustments for slowdowns, Fire Recall main/alternate, viscosity and Fire code applicable to your state etc will have to be set too along with both scans.
Earlier I said, “good to go”, when in reality these other settings have to be correct also.
Valid number of floors, and door openings I think have to be set.
And as you learned, better safe than sorry...when you have a FAST or World Tool, download the CLC before pulling the mainline for service or repairs.

Please let us know how you made out.

It was validating front openings for group that was it, we got it right after I posted on here. Thanks for all your help though.

elevatorguy-
Thanks for posting the fix.

FYI..Possibly battery clip is now loose because of being changed out so many times over the years. I know this is common practice.
Personally I read coin cell battery voltage at diode D4 (D4 kinda sounds like Dover) on CLC located very near CLC battery. Read voltage at the end of diode pointing towards battery, if under 3.0 volts then replace battery. Otherwise leave it be. These batteries last for years in my experience, and it easy to catch them with low voltage in plenty of time before you get a cold start.

I believe Diode D72 has the 5volts across it. It's located at the top left corner of the CLC just underneath the LCC11 connector. That's where the book says to check it. Is D4 diode easier to get to and does it matter which one to check?

I've also heard that there's a diode that if cut, will negate storing the parameters if the power is cut?

Yes, D4 is easy to get to and right next to the CLC battery. Cathode end is 5 volts from energized power supply. Anode end is battery voltage which with the absence of the 5 volts at the other side of diode when power is off will provide enough voltage to hold the memory. Not that I’ve tried it, but my guess is that is the one that disconnects battery.

Good to know, thanks.