Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions Dover Solid State

I have a fun one. I have a Dover Solid State with partial prints. I do not have chart 1, chart 2, or block diagrams. I have those all in a book but I do not know if they are fairly universal. Can I use the generics in my book for troubleshooting any controller?

Here is what I have so far. Slot 2 pin B is broken. There are conductors wrapped around the pin on the back.

The car runs fine on inspection. When I put it in auto it takes a one floor run up, sequences properly to a level stop but does not open the doors. Then it starts in the up direction (not LU), as soon as the LD switch hits the vane the car levels back down and stops. Then starts in the up direction again until the LD switch hits the vane. It continues this pattern until I pull power or put it on inspection.

It will latch calls above and below. It seems to see a standing call but does not open doors.

Anybody got any ideas for me?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Is this a dover continental with the Power, Car, Intermediate, Top & Bottom boards? Does it do it on every floor or just the first floor up from the bottom?

Yes. Power, car, t&b, int, int, option. Does this at every floor. Even at the top.

Thank you.

The leveling circuit on these cars are a little tricky as you probably know. When coming into the floor the "S" relay must be held up by the actuation of only one of the LU or LD relays. This will begin pre-opening of the doors and "S" relay will remain in until the other leveling relay is energized.
Remember, when the car is level at the floor both LU and LD should be energized. For example, if the car is traveling in the up direction the "LU" relay should energize about 4" below the floor (this will start the pre-opening of the doors if "S" is kept in Properly. Then about 1/2" from the floor the "LD" relay will energize causing the car to stop. At this time the car should be floor level with both "LU" and "LD" energized.
Once the doors close and the car begins to run up to the next floor, The F1 relay should energize dropping out both "LU" and "LD" not allowing the leveling circuit to affect your normal car acceleration. Good Luck!

Thanks for the information. You touched on something I noticed in my reading about this system. Everything I have read states that the leveling system works just as you stated (almost like you quoted it right out of the books), but on the car I am looking at the sensors are spread out so that to stop the directional leveling switch drops off the vane, and the other sensor never sees the vane until the car starts traveling again. (This would be so much easier to communicate in pictures)

Others have worked on this car. When I stopped by this building to talk to the manager he told me that the car had been down for several months. If I get it solved I get the repair and maintenance. Is it likely that someone moved the sensors? The car stops level, so I would think that if that was the case it would not stop level before it oscilates. If it was intended to operate according to the manuals, and someone spread the sensors so that DZ was the only one on the vane at floor level would it not slip past the floor waiting for the other leveling switch to make to shut the car down? It should NEVER stop level since both switches are never on the vane at the same time, right? Could it be as simple as a non-Dover guy trying to make it stop like his native controls??

Thanks for your help!!!

I think it could be as simple as that someone moved the sensors or the vanes thinking that it works like a typical elevator. I just remembered a similar problem that happened to me on one of these units when the leveling sensor went bad and I beat my head against the wall for hours because I didn't have the book or any info. on the system. I hope for your sake it's something easy as this.

I do as well, thanks for the thoughts. The more I think about it the more I suspect this as a main issue. I've been searching for info hoping to get a solid understanding of the logic before I get back there Monday.

I have found a missing socket pin on the car board and a broken jumper on the car board socket. I cannot find what circuit the missing pin feeds. Do you have anything outlining where the car board pin B sits in the circuitry?

Thanks for the help!

hey ILG stranger just some more input.I have very little trouble with these units.The one time I had a strange problem it was low voltage from the power supply.Not having a print in front of me but I think P1-P5 or S+ S-????? (help me out here lift tech) 24volts'if the voltage is much lower than 20volts the car is not very happy.Good luck and please post solution

Between PC and 24D you need to have at least 28 VDC... print says 24 VDC, and 30 VDC won't harm it... add a capacitor beyween PC and 24D... be careful about polarity while doing this... 1000uF 35 watt should do it...

Thanks for the input. I did check voltage. Added cap to get 29.3vdc. Also adjusted power card up to 4.93vdc.

One thing I am hoping to find logic docs for is to see if lu and/or ld are/is required with dz to fire do w/o pre-opening, referencing the selector situation mentioned above.

power card needs to be 5.15 vdc...

Also keep an eye out that the lamps have not been changed out to neon or dioed type bulbs. I havent seen this myself but I have heard this can deal you fits with this controller.

on the car board pin B is labeled LDZ on a 4 key board on a 3 key board there is no pin labeled B that I can see. it looks as though LDZ was added to the 4 key circuit board to disable the ULD circuit. the 3 key board does not have a ULD output circuit but does have the same ULD input circuit tied to a terminal that 4 key does. I cant find where the ULD terminal is on the print though, still looking.

One thing to look at is why the U terminal is being grounded to cause the U relay to energize and move the car up until level down input comes on. I would go to the power board and check the signal to start the car up. the signal is U, or US and is on pin T. If that pin is going hi, then the amplifier circuit will drive U terminal low and pick up the U relay. If you see that pin T is staying low and does not change when the U relay picks up, you want to check out the rest of the amplifier circuitry, In order for the circuit to work the IN inputs must be in the proper state for the amplifier to work correctly. first the SP signal must be connected to pin X of the power board through a normally open in2 relay contact it should be 5 volts.
the other part is the common or PCP of the amplifier circuit. It need to be connected to PC through another normally open in2 contact. If PCP signal is not connected to the PC terminal through the in2 relay contact the amplifier may trigger U to go low without Pin T the up start signal initiating the sequence. If you have a power board logic print look at the amplifier circuit at the bottom of the page and you will see the PCP terminal there, it doesnt show you where it originates though, you have to go to where the in2 relay is on the print to see what I mean, it is next to the U and D relays on the print i have. I suspect you dont have a connection to pcp.. hope this might have helped still looking for that damn uld terminal on my prints though,

I believe I had a problem like this once, only it was a two stop, the car would yo-yo like your car then would eventually mlt. I found that the 5 volt power from the IN2 contact was not making it to pin X on the power board. there was a loose connection at the terminal strip on the side of the controller where the board rack swings out. I still cant find the ULD terminal on my print, I know I have seen it on a print, any body Know where it is or what it is for?