Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions SSC6010 Drive Upgrade

Hey jim, here is some ideas to pass on to your buddy, first, the crt1 and crt2 timer relays play an important part with the pattern input on take off. i would replace them both, you could check it out by giving more time on crt1 and 2, if you set them timers to a longer time, say around 2 seconds, the drive will pick the brake, and if the soft start pot on the drive is not set right, the car will drift up, with a light load, or down with a heavy load. have him check this first, set the timers for a couple seconds and run the car from the top floor, if the car drifts into the finals, adjust the soft start pot on the 6 CA board to hold the car until the timer picks up and applies the initial pattern input to the accel decel board.. this timer can also cause comparator trips if it is set to quick, if set to quick, the full running pattern will be applied before the brake picks causing a comparator fault. you check this on the 12EA board, there is a 1st and 2nd trip led on this board, if there is a big difference between pattern and tach the first led will come on, if it happens twice in a row the second led will light and drop the safe circuit. it is possible for just the first led to come on, the car will drop all relays and try again, if it makes it the second time then the counter is reset. maybe no one is reporting this at other floors, as they would probably just notice the car bump, and then take off. you said he replaced some relays, i would check the relays feeding the 7EA board which is the first board that the pattern goes to, they would be HS, 2LC, LR1, RR1, and the crt1 and crt2 timers i spoke of earlier. I would replace or check the RR!-RR3, RRA and the pneumatic timing relays 1TR-4TR, these are problematic. That would probably be it for the relay portion of the drive, it is possible that one of the boards could be acting up and not outputting. as a last resort go through and tighten all board connection screws. ps self-proclaimed, this is an old relay logic controller with 6010 scr drive, not the megatech,miprom 21 where you can log on and disable the doors, and set automatic calls to on , and check for motion and drive faults. this is old school, the only faults are the 2 led lights on the comparator board. should be a fun one to track down, good luck to your friend jim.

You follows Scott's advice and it will be fixed..

Great post Scott.

I have passed all the information posted by you guys. Anxiously awaiting results and will post as soon as I hear back from my friend.

Regards, Jim

Here's the latest in SSC6010 Saga

Well we went to the SS6010 today and tried the timer adjustment. Absolutly no roll back from any floor with the timer set at about two seconds. We did see something we haven't before. When running from 4 to 5 (top floor) the carr would shut down about every three or four runs and the fault light on EA12 would turn on. The car shut down when we hit the slowdown for the top floor. It appeared the comparator fault was shutting it off because everything looked fine until the fault light came on and the drive shut down.

Is it possible to cause a comparator fault if we are still accelerating when hitting a slowdown for the next floor? I would say we are right at the end of acceleration when we hit slow down.

I adjusted the accel slope and Linear accel to provide a quicker accel and the problem never occured again.

I don't know what this would have to do with the car going into the overhead. It is not sliding throught the brake more than normal when an emergency stop is initiated.

Sounds Fun, I guess it must be possible, because adjusting the acceleration slope seemed to have solved that problem. interesting. i wonder what your comparator trip voltage is set to, if it is real low, or tight, it would be easier to trip the comparator. I have been to many jobs with intermittent comparator faults, I usually set the to the maximum which is around 9 volts. this has solved many intermittent comparator trips in my experience, with no negative outcomes. hopefully you guys have found the problem. good job

Hope so as well, it's been all you guys, guess time will tell. I'll keep you all posted. Many thanks for your help. Just happy I don't have to work (didn't say fixed just worked on) on this stuff anymore.

Jim

Guess What? Our 6010 ended up on the final again today. Can you believe it. We ran the daylights out of it yesterday and never a hiccup after adjusting acceleration. What else is interesting is we had no comparator fault today either. Maybe I have been accusing the drive all this time in error?
I have a digi matrix data recorder which I think I will connect to the controlller next week to see if I can catch anything. I will keep you posted and thanks again for all your help buddy and you forum Guys as well.

bloody lifts !

Either an acceleration problem as you describe. (1 or 2 CRT timers, 1TR, 2TR, 3TR auxilary pnuematic timers...) Could be the 12EA needs set up..(Book says 4 volts...I generally set up 6 volts for geared and 8VDC for gearless....

Also....

Notorious for comparator trips, empty car down, from top floor, with any kind of brake drag...

Hope this helps..

damn elevators, I tell you they have a mind of their own. I can't tell you how many times over the last 20 years of being a troubleshooter that a car will run fine all day long as you run the Crap out of it, only to break 10 minutes after you leave. I think i would not let the stepping inductor work, getting it out of step and sending to the top floor to see if it ends up in the finals. Im sure you guys have already checked out the M contactor thoroughly.

He will be back on the job Tuesday guess we all have to wait.

Jim

Here's the latest,

No call backs for the past few days. Maybe has something to do with Sun spots?

Jim

Must have taken the 2 chickens and swung em' around his head, while dancing naked around a camp fire, and howling at a full moon. Works every time!!!

LOL...

Hey Group,

According to my friend this job has settled down for now. Know you all been there. Screw with it enough and the problem either disappears or goes into hibernation.

We will see,

Get home on time every night if not make sure they know where you are. You guys work in a dangerous trade. After 40 years all I have to worry about is the radiation from my big screen TV.

Jim

Hey Jim, sounds like you guys fixed the problem, disturbed the problem while trying to fix it, or maybe Broke Sheave did the chicken dance while drinking members mark and forgot to tell us. :} I was thinking about this the other day, as we just got a new job with these drive units, the car has been going into the overhead for a few months according to the building. we have had it for about a month, and the mechanic has pulled it out of the overhead a few times. I went there last week and was checking out the car when i noticed a slight oscillation or pulsation as the car slowed down and transferred to leveling. you could feel it when you stood next to the machine. I checked a few things out, and finally decided to swap the tach with another car in the group. the vibration went away, but the car was running slow. I cranked up hi speed and got the speed up. and all was well. well i decided to run the other car with the suspected tach, and it ran right into the overhead on the first run. seems as though the other company just slowed the car down, probably trying to get it to stop going in the overhead. So after all this babble, it seems as a bad tach can also send you into the overhead.

I seem to remember replacing a lot of tachs on both 6010 as well as the Miprom 21 with analog AB drives. Check them all for ripple with a scope or even an old Simpson or Tripplett works like a champ on output. I use to stick a 5k resistor across the tach to clean these up a bit. Put a bit of a load on the thing and it works better. I just went through a similar scenario on an Epoch One job. Montgomery's also start messing up when the drive fans don't work. On the 6010 you have the infamous sail switch to shut you down but the later stuff didn't have that. Good find anyhow. The bad news is that you'll be stuck with that stuff awhile longer.

I worked on a job in Tampa, that worked flawlessly for hours, and then would overspeed and crap out. Finally caught it with 2 meters. One on the output of the 7EA and the other one on the tach. Tach voltage just disappeared while dictation just kept humming.

Brushes looked good, no grounds, when spun with a drill motor Voltage was spot on.Coupling was good... Go figure...

I just know I changed the tach after my diagnosis and voila..No more problem.

Course we lost the job to a non-union company the next year due to low bid...

Our 6010 has been running perfect since adjusting the Accell pots. They are using it every day and no problems for several weeks now. Thanks for all your help.