aquadog-
They could do their familiar sabbotage, maybe on the car top, then pull the manual brake release, so you can't get on the car top to fix it. There is a way to make the control move the car, even with a lot of stuff messed up.
You might need to change these parameters-
Menu 5, 9, set from a "1" to a "0"
Menu 1, 86, set from a "1" to a "0"
Pull XC11 off of the bottom left of the kcm831, then take a two pin plug, take the top two wires out of the now-removed plug, pins 1+2, insert those two wires into the two or three pin plug in the same orientation, then plug that two-pin plug back into the board, so the 24volts still makes its' return trip in+out. All other wires on that plug remain disconnected from the board.
Remove the white connector from the limit switch board, the one on the front of the drive.
You might also have to jump out the motor stop switch, the hatch safety circuit, car safety circuit, and door locks, but please be extremely careful with the door locks jumped. If the motor thermistor was removed at the motor, you can put 510 ohm resistor on the thermistor plug at the drive. Can't jump that one, because it's looking for a specific resistance.
theshaft-
The motor bearings were damaged in dissasembly, and they were not readiliy available in the USA. After sourcing them in Europe, it was finally reassembled. We did a truck-bed test on the motor today, by jumping in directly to the drive, and it did turn. Tomorrow, we install it "for real". Thanks for your input. (I think you advised me on the resolver angle, right?)
