Home Forums General Discussion Technical Questions Schindler CRIPHNA board defect

Do you have repeat calls on a Schindler 330? If so look at resistor R176 (lower left) on the board. This has to be a board problem that they know about. Have replaced at least 6 of them. Customers tell us that they will never put another Schindler elevator in again. They feel ripped off and Adams engineers won't acknowledge the problem. R176 will burn up in 1-2 yrs. and you will get continuous door faults. Touch the burnt resistor with an ink pen and it will fall off the board. Low bidder doesn't always mean quality!!

Why not just replace with a higher wattage resistor rather than change the whole board. Probably like 20 cents and a few minutes of your time.

Most of the failed circuits on this board can be repaired fairly easy in the field, I'm with classic chevy on this one, 20 cents and 10 minutes and you will be done. just don't tell the office, especially if you work for one of the big guys :}

otis has already replaced some 330a's with 211's. the new board failure rate is fairly high too. every company has its issues, they all try to save a buck everywhere they can.

Thanks to all who replied. Are the numbers on these surface mount resistors the resistance value? What if the board is burnt on the back side? Has anyone tried to solder one of these resistors on a CRIPHNA board? I tried to and the solder would not "take" I used flux and it would not, let me clarify, I tried resoldering the old resistor. Didn't know value to replace.

Seems like nobody wants to acknowledge that Schindler has a board defect. Is Schindler afraid of a "lemon law" that would require them to replace these boards? This is crazy..... the bigS seems to have some problem they are sfraid to address. Am I crazy or what

All companies are making everything cheaper and at the lowest tolerance. Just put some higher wattage resistors in the units you have on service and be done with it. Each manufacturer I work on seems to have at least one weak link. A 10cent resistor ain't too bad. Also, I think it's 3 months warranty/free service? Used to be 6 months and/or a year? What about Kone and their POS PCB's that cost 2K+ to replace?

Has anyone successfully repaired this resistor? If so...did you merely re-solder the existing one or replace with something else? I've seen this issue on many 330A units...but it seems like replacing the resistor with something different (higher wattage) would be difficult.

Try this link to see photo...

http://www.vatortrader.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showgallery&Number=3890#Post3890

Seems all 330A's have an issue with R176 that I've seen...anyone know a fix? Or is it a replace the board every couple years issue? Reminds me of the KCM831 ADON 1 boards...

The resistor is a 39k ohm 1/8 watt SMD
Found this handy web site that has good info/calculator.

http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php#smd_resistor_code

Seems to be the only problems we encounter are door control issues..have many on contract..they run pretty good...

Thanks for sharing that cool site!

that was a great site steve. always wondered what those numbers stood for on the surface mount resistors now we know great post have that one saved to my desktop

what faults does that resistor generate when it goes bad?

A lot of 202 door op. faults. Random. Since I have replaced boards with the burnt resistor, no calls in months....

Is r176 39k or r177? Controller i'm looking at shows r176 at 75k

Not only is the resistor surface mount, but the board appears to be multi-layered as well. Difficult soldering job, especially in the field. Without a schematic of the board it would be hard to tell the function of the resistor. looking at the picture the resistor in question is in the power circuit..(proximity to the fuses), which could mean a high current undervalue for the resistor. But if it's somehow included in the current/voltage feedback changing the value could change operating charteristics. If I was going to do the repair, with the little I've seen, I'd keep the same ohmage value, and try to step up the wattage.

If you had the board in hand, given time, you could come up with a workable schematic to go by....